Travel: Peshawar (Oct ’23), Former Stronghold of Taliban

Mass killings, suicide bombings, and rising terror were the flavours of Peshawar throughout 2023 and 2024.


Bearded gunmen, AK47s, and blue burqa-wearing women in a dusty, mountaineous backdrop. Add in a bunch of old Toyotas too. That is the ‘image’ of how people around the world see Peshawar, from the old days of Soviet occupation in Afghanistan to Taliban against America, for it is the historic winter capital of the Afghan and Pashtun people.

The purpose of this trip was to attend a meeting with the KPK province’s Head Preacher (خطیب اعظم), Moulana Tayyab Qureshi on ‘Terrorism’. Our meeting took place in the backdrop of rising terror attacks by Tehreek-e-Taliban Pakistan (TTP) and Daesh (ISIS) in the KPK province, closer to the border with Afghanistan.

Related: Discussing ‘Terrorism’ with KPK’s Chief Preacher, Moulana Tayyab Qureshi

Earlier, a terror attack in Lakki Marwat (South KPK) led to the killing of four policemen. To the West, a suicide bomber blew up a historic mosque in the Khyber Agency. Another terror attack on a checkpost killed more policemen. Political strife and terrorism were both running high in the Frontier (though they are even higher now – a year later), and all eyes were on the religious leadership of Peshawar to provide reassurance to the masses.

You could feel the anxiety in Peshawar. Local police had the city’s entrances tightly controlled, while Pakistan’s powerful Frontier Corps (FC) were running frequent patrols out of the city’s historic mega-fortress, the Bala Hisar. The Americans had left for two years at this point, but terror attacks were only getting worse.

Historical mega-fortress Bala Hisar (Pashto for ‘large perimeter’) has been controlled by Afghan monarchies, Mughal Emperors, and appears in Chinese historical literature. Notice the higher concentration of FC soldiers and policemen for the precarious security situation in Peshawar and the wider KPK province (52 seconds).

Starting from Pakistan’s Federal Capital, Islamabad, I travelled to Peshawar via the M1 Motorway (Asian Highway 1). I paid a fare of 700 PKR ($2.30) for the 184km bus journey. After meeting some local contacts in Peshawar’s Fawara Chowk, I was too tired to work further. I wrapped up Day 1 with a hearty meal of Chapli Kebab (minced beef kebabs fried in animal fat and stuffed with boiled eggs) and a fillet of grilled Peshawari fish (from local rivers).

Meat. That’s the food-game whenever I visit Peshawar. Unlike other Pakistani cities that like to add lentils and vegetables to their diets, Peshawar’s distinct Pashtun culture loves meat, especially red meats.

Next morning I was all geared up to travel to Khyber Agency, where a suicide bomber had blown up a local mosque. That trip has been covered in a separate blog, as this blog is dedicated to Peshawar.

Related: Khyber Agency, Afghanistan Border & Tribal Areas

Upon returning from the Khyber Agency (where I somehow learnt a good deal about the benefits of flaxseed from one of the local Imams), it was time to eat already.

A popular food-street in Karkhano, Peshawar. Meat-lovers flock to eat Namkeen rosh (salty stew, slow-cooked in animal fat with whole potatoes). On a first-come, first-serve basis, many restaurants run out before lunch time is over (9 seconds).
A bowl of lamb stew (Namkeen rosh), slow cooked in animal fat with a hearty potato. Served with a Peshawari naan and raita (minty yogurt). This restaurant serves water in traditional, golden bowls. Pashtun hospitality meant I was served a premium, boneless serving with a crisp, freshly baked naan.
I returned before the evening, so a local diner was mostly empty. This meant plenty of room to lay down and rest after hours of walking and talking. It’s incredibly hard to prefer a chair and table over this cozy setting. And water is free, as it should be (7 seconds).
A smugglers’ market in Peshawar. Salvage of the tactical / military gear, utilities, and weapons that American soldiers left in Afghanistan can be purchased in Peshawar, Pakistan for cheap.

After dinner, I went to downtown Peshawar to meet with the local Imams of the Mahabat Khan Masjid. Night walks in Peshawar are oddly serene and reflective. Even the greenery of Islamabad doesn’t match.

Night view of a food market in Peshawar, Pakistan.
Bazar Kalaan, a popular food street in Old Peshawar. The men (local vendors) on the right were arguing with a drum band upstairs on being too loud. Fried fish is particularly famous.
Sir Cunningham Clocktower in Old Peshawar, known locally as ‘Ghanta ghar’ (گھنٹہ گھر). A relic of British Colonialism, the tower was built to commemorate the Year 1900 Diamond Jubilee of Her Majesty Queen Empress Victoria.
A tandoor (bakery) in Old Peshawar displays freshly baked naan. Opposite to the bakery, a dozen Burqa-cloaked women sat on the dusty road giggling and eating bread, closely guarded by a relative male who kept a stick to enforce discipline.
Hasting’s Memorial, renamed as Qissa Khwani (قصه خوانۍ), marks the square where British Imperialists massacred hundreds of local freedom fighters in 1930. This locality is known for its Hawala networks, an honour based system of transferring money globally. This practice is illegal in Pakistan and many other countries.

Peshawar isn’t the most walkable city in Pakistan, but it has a unique ambience that makes walking commutes tolerable (be careful to avoid the Burqa-cloaked women and their male guardians). There’s always the option to hire the nearest rikshaw for less than a dollar if you get too tired of walking. By the time I reached Old Peshawar, the sun had already settled and people were congregating for the Isha prayer (the last prayer of the day).

The Isha prayer is always a time of community in Peshawar. Labourers and businessmen alike take to their local mosques for Salah and collective Dua. After the prayer service, people sit around the Imams and local elders for group reading of Islamic and current literature, tales from the Holy Quran, and to discuss community issues. Hopeful parents talk to their local Imams to find suitable partners for their children.

The historical Mahabat Khan Mosque was built during times of Mughal Emperors, pre-dating the British colonisation. Today, Mahabat Khan Mosque hosts the office of Head Preacher in the KPK Province.
A Peshawar Imam leads his people into prayer. Anti-Israel sentiments ran high and people prayed for Palestinians.
Post-Isha dinner service. The poorer labourers survive on lentils and naan, while the more affording patrons go for Kabuli Pulao and barbecued meat. I interviewed some of Peshawar’s local Imams in cafes like these.
A typical Peshawar market street. Labourers are out looking for work.

At the invitation of some local Peshawar Imams, I went to ‘tour’ some of the city’s older sights and attractions. Peshawar is quite a ‘large’ city by Pashtun standards and has a variety of tasteful older sights (being one of the world’s oldest cities). I opted for the Gor Khatri archaeological complex that houses a Museum on Indus Valley civilisations.

Peshawar’s Karavan Serai Museum has an expansive collection on artefacts from Indus Valley Civilisations, dating thousands of years. A full, high-quality photo and video coverage of the Museum will be published soon.
The Fire Brigade of Peshawar’s Municipal Committee was established in 1912.
A colonial-era small metal foundry in Peshawar.
The archaeological site was ambitiously built to include workshops for pottery works, copper and bronze works, metallurgy, and timber. They were all lost to corruption and mismanagement.
The Hindu temple Gorak Nath, right next to a Muslim Mosque (Abu Hanifa). Peshawar had a substantial Hindu population that emigrated to India in the 1947 partition. Prominent Indian celebrities like Shahrukh Khan trace their lineage to Peshawar. Unforunately, the Pandit was not available to tour the insides.
A flavourful Trotter Nihari in Peshawar’s famous Naiki Siri Paye. A slow-cooked stew popularly served in Mughal Darbars. Served with Naan. Cost around $2.

Pakistan’s role in the downfall of Soviet occupation of Afghanistan in the 1980s is quite well-known. Rarer is to find Jihadi fighters who fought the Russian invaders. Here, I met Muhammad Ibrahim, who did not want to be filmed. Ibrahim had lost his right hand in a firefight with the Soviet Spetsnaz in Northern Afghanistan, and was sent to Germany on behalf of the Zia-Ul-Haq government for surgical treatment.

A staunch believer in Islamic Fundamentalism, Ibrahim refused medical care in Germany because most nurses and doctors there were women. Respecting his religious needs, the Zia-Ul-Haq government shifted his medical care to Switzerland under an ‘special’ arrangement where women doctors / nurses were not allowed near his room.

Dense, zig-zagging streets are a common sight in Old Peshawar. Pictured is a gem and minerals market in corridors that barely receive natural light. Ancient homes rise above us.
A store displays its ware of both artifical and natural stones. I picked a beautiful ring-sized natural Amethyst for $7.

At the end of my second day, the goal of my Peshawar trip was finished. I had made the interview with the Head Preacher of KPK and enjoyed some of the local sights and flavours. It was time to return home.

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